But it still wasn’t that simple! Unfortunately, the airline situation was not straight forward either. The two options were either an overpriced $950 one way flight from Fort Lauderdale to Cat Island or a $300 roundtrip flight between Nassau, Bahamas and Cat Island. No brainer, right? Wrong! The Nassau flights were too early in the day to allow myself and my travel companion/fellow shark sister, Alanna, to arrive there from our respective locations in time. So in the end, we stayed overnight in Nassau upon arrival and departure into the Shark Sanctuary that is the Bahamas. And guess what … that was actually more economical than paying nearly $1900 to fly roundtrip in and out of Fort Lauderdale!
Upon
arrival we were happily greeted by Pauline, Antoine, and their 3 resident dogs,
Dark, Stormy, and Guiness. Antoine
helped us to our room and the magician worked his magic right away, pulling a
silver dollar out from behind Alanna’s ear.
As the week progressed, we came to learn that Antoine was, in fact, a
true magician! And as our boat captain,
he truly brought the magic to us each and every day we dove.
The
following morning, we all had a hardy breakfast on the terrace overlooking the
crystal clear, tropical blue water gently flowing over soft, velvety sand. Then we set up our gear, and piled it and
ourselves into Pauline’s pickup truck.
The ride to the dive boat was only about 10 minutes. The unpaved, gravely roads which were
sometimes lined with goats on the side made for many interesting rides all week
long. Once on the boat, AKA the Emerald,
it was just another 10 or 15 minute ride to the dive site. It didn’t take long before those mesmerizing
white-tipped fins broke through the surface and I was in tears. Actual tears!
Wildlife is so beautiful and I will never understand why anyone would want
to destroy or harm it.
I’ve been warned by many that the Oceanic Whitetips are a very bold, aggressive species that do not know the meaning of personal space. So I was surprised to see that initially they did not behave that way at all! It took a little while for them to warm up to us. Eventually, they did start getting a little more curious and rambunctious, getting very close and checking us out. During our dive briefings, we were told not to touch them at all, even to deflect them. We were only to use our cameras or safety stick (which was provided if we did not have a camera) to push them away. I found this interesting. When briefed for dives with Tiger Sharks, we are always told to guide them with a flat hand on top of the head and push them down and away. With these whitetips though, that simply was not allowed. It was camera only!
Day #2 was soured a little bit by
heavy rain and winds in the morning. On
a day like this, I usually would be disappointed and expect the dive operator
to call the dives for the day. But
around noon it did clear up and Pauline ordered us into the truck to get
going! And surprisingly, once we got out
there, the seas were calm and the visibility was as amazing as ever!
Besides the Whitetips, we also had several Dusky shark encounters on our dives and I was able to officially add this Species as #15 to my personal shark dive list. Sadly, there was one poor dusky who had a hook in her jaw with a large pink fishing lure and a thick line trailing behind it that was roughly 3x the length of her body. Sadly, sharks are not even fully safe in a country that is a shark sanctuary. Making several attempts to swim close to her, Pauline managed to clip a good portion of the line to at least prevent the drag being created by it. Later on, Alanna fashioned the line into a bracelet which I now wear as a reminder of this trip and that there are still good people in a world gone mad who want to prevent animal suffering as best they can.
So what did we see besides
sharks? We had two huge marlin which
brought some unexpected excitement!
After our final dive, Antoine brought us to a Bat Cave where we picked
up some Sea Glass and fossils as bats flew around aimlessly above our
heads. Speaking of Antoine, he is a man
of many talents! He was our boat
captain, he rides a motorized paraglider, he climbed a 40 foot palm tree to
retrieve some coconuts to give us purely organic coconut water, and he provided
us nightly entertainment at dinnertime with his magic. And it wasn’t magic tricks … it was simply
magic!










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